Review of ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ by Studio Jeje

Javanese traditions take centre stage at Dewi Fashion Knights

Jakarta Fashion Week 2025 recently concluded, culminating in the much-anticipated Dewi Fashion Knights (DFK), where a selection of designers presented collections based on a specific theme. This year’s show, titled ‘New Wave,’ featured three distinguished designers: Friederich Herman, Studio Jeje and Monica Ivena.

‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ showcase at DFK. Image courtesy of Jakarta Fashion Week.

As a guest at the DFK, I had the privilege of experiencing the showcase firsthand. A common thread that ran through the three presentations was the use of floral elements, though each interpretation was distinct. Studio Jeje drew inspiration from Javanese purification rituals for their collection, ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’. This article delves into Studio Jeje’s presentation, and looks into how they weave the narrative into the collection.

Campaign photo of ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’. Image taken from Studio Jeje’s Instagram.

Campaign photo of ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’. Image taken from Studio Jeje’s Instagram.

The collection is deeply rooted in the Javanese heritage of Studio Jeje’s founding designer Angelita Nurhadi. “We aim to capture the essence of Javanese culture within the realm of modern fashion,” she explains. “The garments embody the beauty of life’s purification journey, inviting all to celebrate the spirit of renewal, reflected in every stitch and detail.” ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ refers to a ceremonial arrangement of seven flowers, traditionally used in Javanese rituals to symbolise purity and sanctity. A central ritual, siraman, involves an individual—typically a bride or groom—being bathed in water infused with the flowers to "cleanse the soul and body." This tradition serves as a key influence for the collection, which explores themes of self-purification and rebirth.

A short film accompanying ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’, presented by Studio Jeje. Directed by Rayhan Reza Arifin. Video taken from Studio Jeje’s Instagram.

The narrative was brought to life at DFW. A short film that opened the show traced an individual's spiritual journey toward purity. The room was filled with a strong floral scent and the sound of cascading water, creating an immersive multisensory experience that amplified the cultural depth of the collection. As the models walked down the runway, my eyes were drawn to the floral elements in the form of intricate embroidery, beading and three-dimensional appliqué. The use of bold colours such as lime green, fuchsia, violet, and turquoise further enhanced the silhouettes.

‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ showcase at DFK. Images courtesy of Jakarta Fashion Week.

The brand unveiled 20 demi-couture garments. Some pieces embraced contemporary shapes, including a cropped jacket paired and a long-trained top paired with mini skirts, along with a fuchsia dress accented by an exaggerated bow. Others drew on tradition with kebaya-inspired sheer blouses adorned with delicate beading on the collar and sleeve hems. These were paired with flowing long skirts, a staple in classic Javanese attire. One look took a literal approach to the theme: a dress fully adorned with oversized 3D floral appliqués. This embellishment was revisited in a different form on a bustier top paired with flared pants, displaying the collection's versatility, and the designer’s creative reimagining of signature elements.

Backstage image from the ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ showcase. Image taken from Studio Jeje’s Instagram.

Backstage image from the ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ showcase. Image taken from Studio Jeje’s Instagram.

The theme of marriage is woven into ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’, with the subtly incorporation of Javanese bridalwear elements. This move reflects the practice of the brand’s bespoke line, Hands by Jeje. One standout look features a turquoise open suit paired with a sheer maxi skirt, echoing the classic silhouettes of the male beskap and kain jarik. Another is ablack velvet dress paired with the brand’s beaded rendition of ronce melati, a layered jasmine garland draped across the chest. Additional interpretations of the ronce appear throughout the collection in the form of floral hair clips and caps.

Backstage images from the ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ showcase. Images taken from Studio Jeje’s Instagram.

Studio Jeje assembled a dynamic team of collaborators to bring the showcase to life. Footwear designer Marista Santividya created an embroidered shoe collection that included ballerina flats and block platform heels in a mix of materials—velvet, sheer fabrics, and chromed glitter PVC. The bags, which were clutches with dangling floral ornaments and beaded boxy handbags, were provided by accessories brand Lungsin. The brand also enlisted makeup artist Yosefina Yustiani to take charge as beauty director, overseeing the show’s beauty direction, including crafting the intricate hairpieces and earrings.

Studio Jeje presents a maximalist line-up that is both thoughtfully crafted and rich in cultural narrative. What I find particularly compelling is the designer’s use of bolder colours and a refreshed approach to beading. This adds a youthful energy to the garments, offering a distinct shift from the more mature silhouettes and muted tones of their previous work.

For my first article at F&M in 2021, I interviewed Angelita about the ‘Janur’ collection, when the brand was only four years old. Since then, Studio Jeje has firmly established itself in the local fashion scene. At its core, Angelita’s commitment to craftsmanship has remained unchanged. ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ is the embodiment of her vision, in which she seamlessly weaves together tradition with innovation. It has been a pleasure witnessing the brand’s evolution up close, and I look forward to seeing how Studio Jeje’s story continues to unfold.

Learn more about ‘Kembang Tujuh Rupa’ at Studio Jeje’s website here, or on Instagram at @studiojeje.