Review of TOTON 2024: Ingatan
The kebaya between continuity and innovation
On 20 July 2023, Toton Januar, the designer of the namesake Indonesian label TOTON, launched his first annual collection at the Grand Ballroom of Hotel Mulia in Jakarta. TOTON 2024 is the brand’s biggest presentation to date with a total of 45 looks in the line-up. The show was simultaneously live-streamed on Instagram, offering a digital front-row seat to anyone who wished to experience it.
TOTON 2024: Ingatan. Image courtesy of TOTON. Photo by Fawzy Padly.
Titled ‘Ingatan’, which means memory, the collection examines the multifaceted forms of kebaya and reimagines its silhouettes. Although Toton has taken inspiration from the traditional garment in his past work, this collection offers deeper exploration. Toton remarks that, “‘Ingatan’ emphasises exploring the art of kebaya as a contemporary idea for modern women, and see to what extent this idea can evolve while staying true to its original form.”
TOTON 2024 collection moodboard. Image courtesy of TOTON.
At the ‘Front and (Off)-Centre: Fashion and Southeast Asia’ conference that Fashion & Market presented at The Courtauld Research Forum last May, Toton shared his research for the collection. In his presentation, titled ‘Kebaya: The Intersection of Past and Future’, the designer sought to understand both the technical constructions and conceptual of the garment.
Behind-the-scenes images of assembling the collection. Image courtesy of TOTON.
The collection is built upon the foundation of the rigorous research that Toton has carried out. “Kebaya has experienced so much development in terms of shapes, styles, and fabric throughout time,” he explains. “As a designer, exploring the idea and identity of kebaya with the aim of expansion, modernisation or even subversion becomes an exciting yet precarious journey.”
“As a designer, exploring the idea and identity of kebaya with the aim of expansion, modernisation or even subversion becomes an exciting yet precarious journey.”
Toton extended his scope of research by conversing with several notable figures he believes to have a deep connection to kebaya and its history. He invited them to his studio to share their personal stories, encounters and knowledge of kebaya. This was documented in a video series posted on the brand’s Instagram page in the lead-up to the showcase.
Featured in one of the videos is Chitra Subyakto, Founder and Creative Director of slow-fashion label Sejauh Mata Memandang. Chitra speaks about the intimate value kebaya represents for her, and how it serves as a continuous inspiration for her brand. Another video documents Atie Nitiasmoro, who heads the Indonesian Women’s Kebaya Activities Division. She elaborates on her role in registering kebaya for the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as a joint nomination with Singapore, Malaysia, Brunei Darussalam, and Thailand. Other individuals featured in the series are designer Edward Hutabarat, costume designer Retno Damayanti, and actresses Dian Sastrowardoyo and Asmara Abigail.
For the showcase, the ballroom was transformed to resemble a Mooi Indie painting, a style of painting developed in Indonesia in the early 19th century during the Dutch colonial period. Stretched across the main stage was a 20-metre-long curtain backdrop inspired by the works of Dutch artist Abraham Salm.
When the show started, the models emerged from behind the backdrop and walked down the foliage-covered runway. Toton collaborated with composer Rani Jambak to create a tune that combines traditional instruments and contemporary electronic music. To amplify the set design with a sensory experience, Rani also recorded sounds of nature such as water and cricket chirps, and added them to the composition.
As the models walked the show, we see Toton’s research and efforts come to life. ‘Ingatan’ reflects Toton’s personal take on interpreting kebaya as the groundwork of contemporary dressing. “When assembling the collection, I would fantasise about my own imagined universe, where all of the garments I created are worn by Indonesian women of that universe,” he says.
TOTON 2024: Ingatan. Images courtesy of TOTON. Photos by Faraway Studios and Fawzy Padly.
As each model walked down the green runway, the audience could see the rich textures from a whole host of materials, from lace, brocade, tulle, denim, to traditional kains—some of which were taken from Toton’s personal collection of vintage materials. There are looks which are recognisably based on the kebaya. For example, one outfit displayed a Kutubaru style kebaya top with an oversized draped sleeve, which was paired with denim pants. In another look, a sheer kebaya was worn over a lace camisole, paired with a floral Pekalongan batik fabric wrapped as a skirt. Other pieces presented a more contemporary take on kebaya such as a fitted corset blouse with a flowing tulle skirt, a patchwork denim top, and a set of lace suit jacket and pants.
TOTON 2024: Ingatan. Images courtesy of TOTON. Photos by Faraway Studios and Fawzy Padly.
Toton also revived design elements from his past collections: ceramic chest plates from Fall/Winter 2021, 3D sheer floral appliqués from Spring/Summer 2020, and upcycled denim fabric from Spring/Summer 2019. This resulted in a delightful cohesiveness, especially for the long-time fans of the brand, that thread the brand’s collections together.
Upcycled lace tablecloths and curtains. Image courtesy of TOTON.
Accessories made from melted plastic waste. Image courtesy of TOTON.
The label is committed to sustainability through its use of upcycled fabrics and materials. In the past months, Toton had offered ‘ONE OFF’ pieces using lace that would usually be used for tablecloths and curtains, and prompted the brand’s customers to re-consider the aesthetic possibilities of these fabrics. The same idea is incorporated into the making of this annual collection. “We hope we can start an ongoing conversation on how to work with waste materials and explore yet preserve Indonesian culture,” he comments.
Using upcycled materials was one of Toton’s favourite parts of creating the collection. The challenges this posed drove innovation. “We tried to find ways to enhance the use of the materials by combining them with traditional techniques such as embroidery,” he remarks. “But their limited nature pushed us to find more ways to make the most out of what we have.” Correspondingly, the accessories for the runway were crafted from plastic bottle waste that was melted and shaped into various floral headpieces, earrings, and brooches.
As for footwear, Toton teamed up with Marista Santividya, whom he has worked with since his label’s debut Spring/Summer 2013 presentation. The footwear line-up consisted of heels with wooden carvings details and porcelain ceramic prints. They were inspired by cultural elements from India and China respectively, paralleling the foreign influences of the kebaya.
‘Ingatan’ is a collection that addresses the history of the kebaya while reimagining its future, and marks a pivot for the brand. In a FAM interview with Toton in 2021, Toton spoke about his intention to simplify the brand and focus more on maximising its current practice. This show displays commitment to strengthening the label’s place in the Indonesian fashion landscape.
TOTON 2024: Ingatan. Images courtesy of TOTON. Photo by DERAI Studio.
TOTON 2024: Ingatan. Images courtesy of TOTON. Photo by DERAI Studio.
Moving forward, Toton plans on shifting to an even more purposefully conscious approach to his practice. “Since before the pandemic, we have wanted to do more meaningful work that not only focuses on profitability,” he explains. “As a result, we started producing smaller batches in more mindful ways and tried to only produce what is needed.”
In a next step towards a mindful production process, the brand will continue to launch one ready-to-wear collection each year rather than a seasonal output. “The business model will shift toward more personalised and direct-to-consumer, but what is more important is that we get to explore an idea and expand it throughout the year by doing an annual collection,” says Toton. “We are no longer bound to the seasons and therefore, the pieces we produce can have more life span instead of becoming temporary trends.”
“The business model will shift toward more personalised and direct-to-consumer, but what is more important is that we get to explore an idea and expand it throughout the year by doing an annual collection.”
Through TOTON 2024, Toton has demonstrated what he set out to achieve with his practice from the start: a fresh way of retelling Indonesia's culture and heritage. Every aspect of the show—from the research and garment designs to the music and set design—was well thought out down to the smallest details. In doing so, Toton transported the audience into his beautiful, imagined universe that bridges the past and the present, between continuity and innovation.