Conversation with Vietnamese Designer Thao Vu of Kilomet 109, Part 2
Experimentation with artisan collaborators
In the second part of our conversation with Thao Vu, we ask her about the process of creating new textiles and natural dyes, the importance of experimentation with artisan collaborators and what keeps Kilomet 109 going.
Stacks of undyed silk felt. Image courtesy of Kilomet 109.
That brings me to the question: Do you create textiles to fit what you want to design, or what you design depends on what you have?
Design is a very emotional process, at least for me. I can be inspired by the fabric in my hand or the artisan I am speaking to. Sometimes, I have the whole idea for the entire collection, and it is a build-up from over the months or years. And so you try to develop something that would be a perfect fit. Other times, you just develop new textiles and new dyes, and then connect the dots.
“Design is a very emotional process, at least for me. I can be inspired by the fabric in my hand or the artisan I am speaking to.”
When you say new textiles or new natural dyes, what do you mean?
New here means newer ways of creating what is already available. It is also about combining different traditional techniques together to create something new. For instance, blending of different fibers, like banana fibre with cotton, to make a more casual kind of textile. Or we blend silk with hemp, to make it even softer.
Undyed silk felt. Image courtesy of Kilomet 109.
Working with ethnic minorities on new fabric. Image courtesy of Kilomet 109.
This definitely sounds like a labour of love. I wonder if you have a favourite memory that you can share with us?
Yes, in the last collection, we have one piece that was not part of the ready-to-wear line-up, and that one is made by order only. We created that look by watching the artisans feeding silkworms. The artisans would feed them mulberry leaves over three months, and at the end, the silkworms are ready to produce silk. When it was the harvesting period, there were 10 artisans feeding them over the course of four days, taking turns and having very little sleep. I see them moving the silk worms from the flat baskets to a cabinet so that the worms can weave their silk cocoon. I joined the group, and sometimes we were not quick enough to transfer the worms into the cabinet and the silk will be all over us. Seeing all that, and being part of it, I realised that we did not need to move them to another place. We could just leave them and move them around the same place. That resulted in a solid layer of silk, almost like felt. The silk fibers really stick together, and by moving the silkworms in the same place, they can weave it in layers.
Chi Coat and Chi Jacket made from silk felt dyed with indigo. Image courtesy of Kilomet 109.
Incredible!
It was! And we decided to try to make a piece of cloth with this new technique. So instead of going through the boiling and then reeling and weaving to make a piece of cloth, we wanted to see if it is possible to produce the fabric by just moving the silkworms around the flat surface. We did that in a room that was about 4m2. It was crazy, you know, thousands of silkworms, and they cocoon up very quickly, so we needed to be quick and move them on the flat surface to spread the silk out constantly. At the end, though, you get this beautiful fabric.
Ebony fruit dyeing. Image courtesy of Kilomet 109.
Close-up views of Chi Coat made of silk felt dyed with indigo. Image courtesy of Kilomet 109.
How long did it take?
You know, it depends if you want it really thick, you have to keep doing it several times for a couple of days.
The experimentation sounds hectic but also very fun.
It is always fun to create a new thing. Working with the new idea is great, and the artisan also enjoys that too, because it is a different way of doing things. So, at the end, we created many layers, and you have to clean it. You need to boil it and then it becomes fluffy, almost like cotton.
“It is always fun to create a new thing. Working with the new idea is great, and the artisan also enjoys that too, because it is a different way of doing things.”
Nice. You started the label about seven years ago but have been researching and experimenting for much longer than that, yes?
Yes, I started experimenting and building my network since 2009.
What has sustained your practice?
I think it is knowing that Kilomet 109 is more than just a clothing brand. I look at it from the artisans' perspectives as well. We protect the traditions and we keep them going. We also provide jobs and income to support the livelihoods of these communities.
That is indeed something that will keep one going.
Yes, and the process of making our textile is purely natural and eco-friendly, using 100% natural fibres that we farm ourselves. And then we weave our own fabric, so everything is in-house. We work with five different ethnic minority groups that are spread across Vietnam, but luckily, in Vietnam, we are still able to send fabrics by bus, and it does not cost a fortune to do that.
What is next for Kilomet 109?
My brand and this journey we’re on is like being on a slow train. We will continue to take our time to do things so that we can come up with new innovations. In the next few years, I want to see Kilomet 109 expanding our distribution network to a more international level. We are already planning for a launch in Hong Kong this September, as part of a multi-label lifestyle boutique. We cannot reveal much yet, so you will have to wait for the news.
Visit kilomet109.com for more information.
Click here for Part 1 of the conversation with Thao Vu, where she speaks about working with ethnic minority communities and sustaining a slow fashion label in the Covid-19 pandemic.