Fresh Faces: Laurencia Irena
Indonesian designer on portraying Romanticism and femininity
F&M’s Fresh Faces is a series featuring young Southeast Asian fashion practitioners, where we speak with them about how they embarked on their careers and what propels them as creatives.
Laurencia Irena.
Laurencia Irena is the founding designer of her namesake Jakarta-based label. After graduating from Istituto Marangoni London with a BA (Hons) in Fashion Design in 2019, she started her brand a year after as a side business. Initially creating accessories as the main focus, the pandemic provided the unexpected opportunity to grow her emerging brand within the local fashion landscape. As a label, Laurencia Irena portrays femininity through designs inspired by various aspects: from the artworks of the Romanticism movement to the diverse cultures she encountered during her studies in Tokyo and London.
To start, could you talk about your background? What was your first memory or encounter with fashion?
One of my first memories when I was around three or four years old was drawing wedding dresses as a hobby. Up until primary school, I did not know it was possible to turn this hobby of mine into a real job. When I found out in fourth grade that being a fashion designer is a valid profession, I decided to pursue what I love doing and being a fashion designer has been my dream job since then.
How did the initial process of creating your label come about? What was the story behind it?
I was working for a local brand up until the pandemic. When the brand closed down and I was laid off, I started my brand as a side business while I was still actively looking for jobs. Laurencia Irena started out as an accessories brand that sells pouches and masks, but I knew I wanted to make a ready-to-wear brand.
‘Dream A Little Dream’ SS21 collection campaign. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
‘How Can You Mend A Broken Heart’ AW21 collection campaign. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
As an alumna of Istituto Marangoni London, what would you say has been the most significant shift from designing as a fashion student, to becoming a professional fashion practitioner?
I think when you are a fashion design student, it is important to experiment as much as you can. When you are designing for a brand, you need to know what people want, be aware of what is happening in the world and also think about your customers when you are designing.
Let’s move on to talk about your latest Spring/Summer 2023 collection, ‘Moonflower’. Could you share more about this? What was the main inspiration for the collection?
I was studying flowers because I am intrigued by them. Then I stumbled upon the moonflower that only blooms at night. It caught my attention and I found it inspiring for my collection.
Visual research and process of ‘Moonflower’ SS23 collection. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
You collaborated with Jakarta-based photographer Iona Chavela in executing the collection’s campaign photos. What was the concept behind the images? And how do they tie in with what you aim to communicate through the garments?
I told Iona about the concept of my collection and we discussed how we would like to portray the concept in the photo shoot. We decided to do the shoot during the nighttime with a flash since the flowers only bloom at night.
The garments, which portray a flower field, are playful, feminine, and simultaneously unorthodox. The more whimsical elements are portrayed through fabric manipulation and colours, while the mystical elements are shown in the styling and silhouettes of the collection.
‘Moonflower’ SS23 collection campaign. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
‘Moonflower’ SS23 collection campaign. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
I notice that you often experiment with various textile manipulations in your designs, including the latest collection where you applied a floral smocking technique. What are your favourite techniques or textiles to work with?
Yes! I love to experiment with smocking techniques. I think it gives life to plain fabrics. Some are also good for creating a more voluminous silhouette. I have been practicing braid smocking on taffeta fabric since my first collection and I consider them as the brand’s signature element.
“I love to experiment with smocking techniques. I think it gives life to plain fabrics. Some are also good for creating a more voluminous silhouette.
Floral smocking details in the latest SS23 collection. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
Floral smocking process of the SS23 collection. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
On your website, you have noted that your designs pay homage to the romantic era. What are the main influences your work draws upon?
Romanticism is an art movement that is characterised by its emphasis on emotions and strong individualism. The movement constantly fuels and inspires my work. I built my brand around the concept of embracing the raw and honest side of femininity, which is also the main influence of my work.
Many female artists have also inspired me with their individual styles. I think Frida Kahlo is the perfect figure of a strong woman who portrays raw femininity. I find Louise Bourgeois’ work around the subject inspiring too.
‘Moonflower’ SS23 collection campaign. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
‘Moonflower’ SS23 collection campaign. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
‘Moonflower’ SS23 collection campaign. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
You also mentioned that your brand captures elements of Western and Eastern themes. What kind of elements are you looking at in particular? Could you share some examples of how you applied it in your garments?
I am fascinated by historical European fashion. With my experience growing up in Indonesia and having previously lived in Japan, I love to combine my experience and my interests. In terms of specific features in my collection, you will find a modern take on Victorian undergarments and petticoats, as well as shapes, silhouettes, and collar details from the East.
Garment details of the AW 22 collection. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
Garment details of the SS22 collection. Image courtesy of Laurencia Irena.
As a young emerging designer, what informed your decision to base your label in Indonesia? What are some of the key challenges you face and equally opportunities that you seek?
I base my label in Indonesia as it is where I am from and the place where I grew up. It is also where I can find a community of support. As for challenges, there are several target markets that are difficult to reach in Indonesia, but equally there is a growing group of supportive clients who appreciate local brands.
What are your hopes for your local fashion scene, and in Southeast Asia as well?
I hope that the local fashion can embrace extravagant femininity, exploring more experimental and bold shapes that Laurencia Irena offers. I also hope to see more brands that do not cater to a specific gender, which is something that I want Laurencia Irena to be known for. I would like to see more gender-fluid individuals in the Indonesian fashion scene as it will allow brands similar to my own to reach a more versatile customer base.
“I also hope to see more brands that do not cater to a specific gender, which is something that I want Laurencia Irena to be known for.”
Finally, what are your plans for your label moving forward?
I have a couple of exciting projects and news coming up for the next collections. However, I am hoping to extend my range and hopefully, Laurencia Irena could grow on an international scale. I would love the opportunity to expand to London and Japan since I consider these places as my second and third homes.
See more of Laurencia's works here or on Instagram at @laurenciairena_