Through the Lens: Lê Huy
Parisian-inspired campaign for Gia Studios’ Spring/Summer 2024 collection
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign. Images courtesy of Lê Huy.
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign. Images courtesy of Lê Huy.
Lê Huy is a photographer based in Saigon, Vietnam. Having shot for titles like L’Officiel Vietnam, Elle Vietnam and local fashion labels like Thaihuy, Seeson, Mel Essentials, Gia Studios and Fanci Club, he is no stranger to the fashion industry in Vietnam. Lê Huy’s photos have a sense of ease and spontaneity that turns a classic fashion image into engaging narratives. In this interview, we talk about his ideas on photography, his process of shooting the Spring/Summer 24 Campaign for Gia Studios and more.
Could you talk about your background? How did you start your photographic practice?
I grew up in Hanoi and initially studied finance in college before switching to photography. It began for me as an impromptu exercise in observation. I was drawn to the significance of seemingly mundane objects and daily rituals and the ways in which they could be interpreted through my own perspective.
A friend took an interest in my photographs and approached me to take pictures for his clothing brand. It was only after this series of photographs that I discovered the transformative nature of fashion. I was fascinated by its dual aspect, in particular how it allows the subjects to express their truest selves or transform into whichever character they want to portray. After a few years of working in Hanoi, I moved to New York City to study fashion photography at the School of Visual Arts, and I’m currently living and working in Ho Chi Minh City.
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign. Image courtesy of Lê Huy.
What would you like to communicate through your photographs? Are there any specific elements that you would want people to pay attention to, and why?
One of the aspects that I focus on the most when taking a picture is movement. I’m drawn to the idea of tension, specifically the contrast between the inherent stillness of the photograph as an object and the movement of my subject, the subtle gestures and rhythm that require focused attention from both the photographer and the viewer. Interesting movements are suggestive of stories that are beyond the moment reality becomes a two-dimensional photograph, whereas a static picture can capture space but not necessarily the presence of time.
What I want to communicate through my photographs is a strong sense of character. Attitude is usually the first thing I notice about someone. My work is very much about the person or the character, the way they move and present themselves. Everything else is in service of bringing forward the characteristics of the person in front of the camera.
“One of the aspects that I focus on the most when taking a picture is movement. I’m drawn to the idea of tension, specifically the contrast between the inherent stillness of the photograph as an object and the movement of my subject, the subtle gestures and rhythm that require focused attention from both the photographer and the viewer.”
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign. Images courtesy of Lê Huy.
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign. Images courtesy of Lê Huy.
What kind of inspiration or influences do you see in your work and can you elaborate on the recent campaign you did for Gia Studios?
Some of my early influences are derived from street and documentary photography in the traditions of William Eggleston, Stephen Shore, or Alex Webb. Each of them has informed my instinctive and spontaneous approach to photography in one way or another. I am interested in the way those pictures depict landscapes and people, often balancing qualities of documentation and reimagination. This naturalistic documentary-style approach is something that I want to explore further in my own practice.
The Gia Studios campaign began with a lot of conversations about the personalities of the people who wear Gia Studios and the way they live. We wanted to draw a connection between the Parisian influences behind the collection and Ho Chi Minh city where the brand is based. French architectural structures from the 19th and 20th century are very important to the history of Ho Chi Minh city and they became the foundation from which the campaign images are derived. We shot the entire project in 3 days with over 15 models who were also Gia Studios regulars. The selection of locations was the only thing we planned ahead of time. Everything else was very spontaneous for the most part. What we wanted to capture was the beauty of quotidian moments, the joy of being open to chance, the personalities of the subjects, the way they interacted with their surroundings and with one another.
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign. Image courtesy of Lê Huy.
Can you talk through your creative process? What are some challenges you face as a photographer, and how do you solve them?
My creative process varies depending on the project I’m working on but a lot of it has to do with observation. One of my favorite things to do since moving to Ho Chi Minh City has been wandering around and exploring different aspects of the city. I do this with no particular agenda, other than looking at the world around me with close attention and waiting for anything that piques my curiosity. I make a mental note of everything that I find interesting, even if I don’t get to explore them immediately.
One of the biggest challenges of working in fashion is overcoming creative constraints. Fashion brands and magazines all have very specific guidelines that you have to work around. But that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Sometimes it’s good to have guidelines and restrictions because they force you to step out of your comfort zone and consider ideas that you otherwise might have missed. What comes out the other end is much richer and more realised as a result.
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign. Images courtesy of Lê Huy.
Do you have a team or collaborators that support you creatively? What is the collaborative process like?
Fashion photography is a collaborative process and I get to work with many wonderful and talented people who play an integral part in creating an image. We usually start with conversations about a general idea and it could be a story or a character, a sartorial concept, or a certain mood that we’re trying to evoke. Afterwards, we come up with references and propositions to further realise that idea. We also communicate throughout the whole process.
Lastly, what plans do you have in store for your practice moving forward? Are there any projects that you are currently working on?
Moving forward, I want to work on more personal projects to further explore my visual language. What I also want to do is try and find a narrative or theme that connects my works in the past and the present. We sometimes look at fashion images as separate bodies of work and we move on to the next project when the current one is completed. It would be a good idea to remove an image from its original context and present it in a new way, perhaps with other works in an exhibition or a book.
See more of Huy’s work on his personal Instagram at @huyvule.
Gia Studios Spring/Summer 24 Campaign Credits
Photographer – Huy Vu Le
Creative Director – Lam Gia Khang
Makeup Artist / Hair Stylist – Xi Quan Le and Team
Visual Assistant – Van Che Tam
Producer – Tin Tran Phan Chi Nghia Thanh Phan Tram Ho Tou Vu
Produced by Gia Studios